Vietnam is one of the world’s largest beer markets.
Currently ranked 7th in global consumption, the country has attracted significant investment and interest from international giants like AB InBev and Heineken.
Fortunately, this hasn’t hindered the emergence and even the thriving of a local craft beer scene over the past 10 years.
To better understand this industry, driven by passionate individuals, I met with Nguyen Dung Tuan, the founder of Labtory Brewing Company, established in 2022.
This Hanoi-based brewery has been producing an impressive line of craft beers, with a particular focus on incorporating local flavors and ingredients.
Journey of a Passionate Brewer
A lot of brewery founders will tell you the same thing: “You don’t start a brewery without a passion for beer.” This is certainly true for Tuan, whose love for beer was evident in every minute of our conversation.
What was even more remarkable was his ability to pinpoint the exact moment his journey began.
In 2016, Tuan was covering an expedition as a journalist in Son Doong, the largest cave in the world. After setting up camp in the middle of this natural marvel, a Swedish expedition member opened and shared an unlabeled bottle with him.
“What is this?” Tuan asked.
“It’s my homebrew beer. I bring some bottles with me to celebrate the high point of each trip,” the expedition member replied.
To say this beer impressed Tuan would be an understatement.
“I had never tasted craft beer before, and even now, it might still be the best beer I’ve ever had,” he recalled.
This was a true turning point in Tuan’s life. He immediately began researching how to make craft beer on international forums. Fortunately, his background in chemistry allowed him to quickly get up to speed.
A few months later, he teamed up with a friend to launch Thơm Brewery, Tuan’s first beer venture.
The company still exists today, but his focus is now on Labtory, a brewery he founded with his wife Nhung in 2022.
Brewing Local: Labtory’s DNA
At its core, beer is simply “malt, hops, water, and yeast.”
Vietnam neither produces malt nor hops, so local brewers primarily work with imported ingredients.
This does not mean that the Vietnamese craft beer scene lacks a local identity and just copies the American craft beer scene.
While Labtory’s product line includes well-executed classics like an English Porter (London 1817) and an IPA (Ship IPA), it’s clear from speaking with Tuan that the creations he’s most passionate about are those that showcase local flavors and ingredients.
These ‘Vietnamese beers’ are a deeply personal project for Tuan, driven by his desire to highlight Vietnamese agricultural products. It’s also a fascinating playground of ingredients—some of which have never been used in beer-making before.
Tuan hasn’t hesitated to push boundaries in this area.
A standout example is Sa Huỳnh, a brew inspired by Belgian Dark Strong Ale, enhanced with a clever twist: salt from Sa Huỳnh province.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, Labtory’s Vietnam Saison incorporates Hạt Dổi and Mắc Khén, two spices traditionally used by Northern Vietnam’s ethnic minorities.
This line of specialty beers, distinguished by an orange label instead of a white one, highlights local flavors and sets them apart from Labtory’s more traditional offerings.
In total, the brewery currently produces seven commercially available beers, along with a few exclusives for some of their partners.
Science first
Hearing about these creations might make you think that brewers are artists but talking with Tuan gave me a different perspective: brewing is science first.
It’s no surprise that the person Tuan still seeks guidance from when working on new recipes is his former chemistry teacher, rather than colleagues in the industry.
This commitment to fully understanding and controlling the chemical and biological reactions that create beer is at the core of Labtory’s DNA.
The company name itself is a shorthand for “From Laboratory to Factory,” highlighting their dedication to a rigorous R&D process that spans from the conception of a recipe to the mass production of the beer.
Looking at Labtory’s facilities, it’s clear that their vision isn’t just a tagline—it’s a well-advanced roadmap.
The facility I visited represented a significant investment for the young company, but it was essential to achieving the level of quality and consistency that Tuan and his wife Nhung had envisioned.
Their first major recognition came with the achievement of several ISO certifications.
But for Tuan, what matters most is having the right tools and infrastructure to create the beers he envisions. Interestingly, this doesn’t always mean making more complex beers. Tuan explained that sometimes, the best beers are the simplest.
Yet in brewing, simplicity doesn’t mean ease.
The challenge lies in the fact that when a beer uses minimal hops (which provide bitterness) and has a relatively low alcohol content, there’s nothing to mask any imperfections in the brew.
There’s no room for error, and this is where mastering the chemistry and biology of brewing becomes crucial.
This is exactly where Tuan excels, but he doesn’t keep this knowledge to himself. Tuấn have been organizing workshop & brewing courses since 2018 to help amateur brewers get started.
Beyond beers
We could not talk about beer in Vietnam without addressing the current context. The country has recently enforced a very strict zero-tolerance policy regarding drinking and driving.
This has had a significant impact on the country’s biggest brewers. Vietnam’s beer sales as a whole fell by 11 percent, and the industry’s profits dropped by 23 percent in 2023.
When asked about the potential challenges this might pose for his business, Tuan immediately stopped me and made his point very clear: “I 100% support these policies”.
He emphasized that his goal is to encourage people to drink better, not more, and noted that the cost of a Grab ride in Vietnam is not prohibitive.
That said, Tuan and Nhung also sees a future for Labtory beyond alcohol, especially as people become more health-conscious, and rightly so.
Currently, Labtory is already using its technical skills and facilities to assist a company specializing in cold brew coffee that needed third-party expertise to scale.
More importantly, they are developing a new line of products from the kombucha family, with honey as the core ingredient.
This project is still in the “lab,” but having had the chance to taste the beta version, I can tell you it shows great promise.
Artisanal Drinks in Vietnam: A Flourishing Scene
Labtory Brewing Company is not the only company producing artisanal drinks in Vietnam.
As mentioned in the introduction, the craft beer scene is impressively dynamic, but it’s not the only area being explored by passionate entrepreneurs.
You can now find locally produced gin, whiskey, cider, kombucha, and more. Some names, like Lady Triệu and Saigon Cider, are already well-established, while others are just starting out.
This means that along with drinking responsibly (which is a must), you can also support local artisans instead of multinational companies by choosing to drink local—if you pay a little attention.
At Am Thuc Hien Dai, we aim to continue spotlighting these projects!
Where to Drink Craft Beers in Hanoi?
Feeling a bit thirsty after reading this article? Don’t worry—we have an article listing our favorite places to enjoy craft beer in Hanoi.
Top 10 Venues for Craft Beer in Hanoi
Read more about beer on Am Thuc Hien Dai:
Is this a sponsored article?
No, it’s not. I personally contacted Labtory Brewing Company after tasting some of their beers, as I have a personal interest in Vietnamese craft beer. Labtory did provide us with pictures to illustrate the article. You can always count on us to be 100% transparent.
