[Independent Review] *Hanoi – Vietnamese Restaurant
Concept
Hanoian – Vietnamese Cuisine in the hearth of the Old Quarter
Address
48 P. Hàng Bè, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
The Old Quarter is home to numerous “Vietnamese Restaurants” catering primarily to tourists. Among them, Madame Hien stands out, thanks to its history.
The Legacy of Didier Corlou
Originally located in a French villa on Chân Cầm Street, this restaurant had to close its doors during the Covid pandemic. It has since reopened on Hàng Bè Street, in another French villa constructed in 1928, previously the location of the Green Tangerine.
Madame Hien is originally a project by the French Chef Didier Corlou, who arrived in Vietnam in 1991. After marrying a local, he spent much of his life exploring and embracing Vietnamese cuisine. He has founded several well-regarded restaurants, including the now-closed la Verticale.
The establishment of Madame Hien was Corlou’s tribute to his wife’s grandmother and the culinary traditions of Hanoi.
Currently, the restaurant is managed by his son, who has returned to Vietnam after completing his hospitality studies in Europe to carry on his father’s dedication to Vietnamese cuisine.
Good Service and Foreigner-Friendly
We visited in the evening when the restaurant was nearly at full capacity, and an unexpected rain caused some tables to be moved inside.
Despite this, the service was impeccable, and we were promptly served a nice appetizer upon arrival: a homemade tofu cracker with tamarind sorbet.
The Menu
Madame Hien presents an extensive selection of what Hanoi has to offer, from the city streets to the homes of its residents.
This is showcased in their set menus:
- The Madame Hien Menu (VND 375,000) aims to provide a home-cooking experience with dishes like rice soup and fish meat.
- The Hanoi 36 Street Food (VND 450,000) attempts to encapsulate the typical food found on Hanoi’s streets: Bún Chả, Chả Cá, Bún Riêu…
For those not inclined to order a complete set menu, there’s the option to order à la carte. That’s what we did. Here, you’ll discover other “Hanoi Classics” such as Phở or Bánh Cuốn.
It’s worth noting that Madame Hien also has an extensive drink menu, featuring a respectable wine selection.
The Food
During our visit, we tried a few dishes:
- Fried “Nem” Hanoi style: It came well-presented with traditional sauce and an abundance of herbs. Huong felt the rice paper was too thick by her standards, a detail that didn’t bother me. Flavor-wise, it was on the safe side.
- Pomelo Shrimp Salad: Unfortunately, we both found this dish to be somewhat lacking. The shrimp and presentation were appealing, but the pomelo salad fell short in several areas. As one of my favorite dishes, I admit my expectations are quite high, but the salad was clearly missing diversity in ingredients and depth in sauce flavor. Typically, the best pomelo salads have a robust flavor profile, attributed to the chili and fish sauce, and feature a variety of elements like peanuts, carrot shreds, radish, and sometimes even onion. This was not the case with what we experienced.
- Moment Fish Cooked in Banana Leaf: The last dish we ordered was more satisfying. The fish still could have benefited from a touch more salt and pepper to offset the sourness of the passion fruit. That being said, the accompaniments, including the rau muống and the soup, were great.
Vietnamese Cuisine on the Safe Side?
We only tried a limited selection of dishes, which is far from sufficient to form a comprehensive judgment of a restaurant with such an extensive menu.
Even so, my initial impression suggests that Madame Hien tends to align its offerings more with the preferences of foreign palates, which are its main clientele.
Knowing Didier Corlou’s genuine passion for Vietnamese spices and sauces, I had personally hoped to discover a bit more character in Madame Hien’s cuisine.
Practical information
Address: 48 P. Hàng Bè, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội
Opening Hours: 11 am – 11 pm
Price: 400k – 1m VND per person
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MadameHienHanoi
Google Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/RKv1Xxnz2shT7EAR7
All the places reviewed on this website have been personally tested by us and we paid for our meals. We are committed to informing readers clearly if there is any form of sponsored content.
